Turkey red prints: Identification of lead chromate, Prussian blue and logwood on Turkey red calico

Wertz, J. H. , Quye, A. and France, D. (2019) Turkey red prints: Identification of lead chromate, Prussian blue and logwood on Turkey red calico. Conservar Património: Studies in Historical Textiles, 31, pp. 31-39. (doi: 10.14568/cp2018019)

Abstract

In this research, printed Turkey red calico from the 19th c. is analysed using conservation-based techniques to identify the materials used in their manufacture. Turkey red production was a significant industry in Scotland, and the textiles found in archives and collections are a valuable part of Scottish heritage and material history. Turkey red prints were produced via a unique dyeing process followed by discharge printing, and the analysis in this paper using SEM-EDX, FTIR, UHPLC, and microscopy confirms they were made as documented in the literature. Here, we show that lead chromate, Prussian blue, and logwood were used to create the distinctive prints. These results are useful to develop material-specific guidelines for storage and display for improved conservation and collection accessibility.

• Item Type: Articles
• Additional Information: This research was possible thanks to funding from the University of Glasgow Lord Kelvin Adam Smith PhD scholarship for Julie Wertz
• Status: Published
• Refereed: Yes
• Glasgow Author(s) Enlighten ID: France, Dr David and Quye, Professor Anita and Wertz, Julie
• Authors: Wertz, J. H., Quye, A., and France, D.
• College/School: College of Arts > School of Culture and Creative Arts > History of Art; College of Science and Engineering > School of Chemistry
• Journal Name: Conservar Património: Studies in Historical Textiles
• Publisher: Associação Profissional de Conservadores - Restauradores de Portugal
• ISSN: 1646-043X
• ISSN (Online): 2182-9942
• Copyright Holders: Copyright © 2019 Associação Profissional de Conservadores - Restauradores de Portugal
• First Published: First published in Conservar Património: Studies in Historical Textiles 31:31-39
• Publisher Policy: Reproduced under a Creative Commons License